法國時裝品牌Courrèges（活希源）品牌故事

品牌簡介:

活希源是法國知名品牌。在世界一流名品牌當中最Sporty且富未來感的設計師即是Andre Courreges。Courreges，中文名：活希源。原名：André Courrèges，英文名：Andre Courreges，中文名也常被譯做：庫雷熱、可瑞吉、葛茵姿。

品牌類別：男裝、女裝，還是手袋、飾物、鞋靴和香水

一貫使用白色及粉彩色爲基本的設計創造出閃亮的跳躍感及生動的健康世界。六十年代的Courreges，已是叱吒風雲的名設計師，如今的中年人正是穿着他設計的長褲、迷你裙長大的。1961年Courreges正式獨立創業，經過五年奮鬥，他顯示出不同凡響的才能，他以獨到的現代造形令六十年代的時裝界和消費者們刮目相看。他推出革命性的space-age mini skirt（太空迷你裙）而名噪一時，極受當時服裝界的歡迎亦革命性的推翻服裝界束縛端莊的觀念，少女們楚楚動人的雙臂和雙腿被史無前例地盡情展露，並成爲一種有特色的服式永載史冊。Courreges 和其他設計師最大的不同是：永遠透露着青春氣息！他認爲「青春是腦子的思考方式， 思想、心態年輕，便永遠年輕」第二次世界大战時他曾是法國空軍的一名機師。

一個其他民族感覺拗口的法國名字，卻是人們喜愛的品牌。年輕人尤其喜歡其消闲服的設計，有款有形更有味。無論男裝、女裝，還是手袋、飾物、鞋靴和香水，都同商標上那兩個別致的字母AC一樣，給人留下深刻的印象。對中年人來說，這個名字則太熟悉了，因爲六十年代的活希源 (Courreges)。這個品牌已享譽三十年。

設計師:André Courrèges

André Courrèges (French: [andʁe kuʁɛʒ]; 9 March 1923 – 7 January 2016) was a French fashion designer. He was particularly known for his streamlined 1960s designs influenced by modernism and futurism, exploiting modern technology and new fabrics. Courrèges defined the go-go boot and along with Mary Quant, is one of the designers credited with inventing the miniskirt.

安德烈·庫雷熱 (法語：[andʁe kuʁɛʒ]；1923 年 3 月 9 日 - 2016 年 1 月 7 日) 是一位法國時裝設計師。他以 20 世紀 60 年代的流线型設計而聞名，這些設計受到現代主義和未來主義的影響，充分利用了現代技術和新面料。庫雷熱定義了高筒靴，與瑪麗·奎恩特一起，被認爲是迷你裙的發明者之一。

Courrèges was born in the city of Pau within the Bearnese region of the Pyrenees. He wanted to pursue design in art school but his father, a butler, disapproved of his passion as he wanted him to be an engineer. Courrèges attended École Nationale des Ponts-et-Chaussées (École des ponts ParisTech). During World War II, he became a pilot for the French Air Force.

庫雷熱出生於比利牛斯山脈貝亞恩地區的波城。他想在藝術學校學習設計，但他的父親是一名管家，不贊成他的愛好，因爲他希望他成爲一名工程師。庫雷熱就讀於國立路橋與公路學院 (École des ponts ParisTech)。二战期間，他成爲法國空軍的一名飛行員。

Career Early beginnings（早期）：

In 1945, at 25, after studying to be a civil engineer, Courrèges went to Paris to work at the fashion house Jeanne Lafaurie. A few months later, he went to work for Cristóbal Balenciaga. Courrèges worked for Balenciaga for 10 years mastering the cut and construction of garments.

1945 年，25 歲的 Courrèges 完成了土木工程學學業後，前往巴黎，在 Jeanne Lafaurie 時裝公司工作。幾個月後，他开始爲 Cristóbal Balenciaga 工作。Courrèges 在 Balenciaga 工作了 10 年，精通服裝的剪裁和結構。

In 1961, Courrèges launched his own fashion house. He became known for extremely simple, geometric, modern designs, including the "little white dress" and pants for women. They were often paired with low-heeled white ankle boots, a style that became known as the Courrèges boot, and evolved into the popular go-go boot. His clientele were mature and conservative woman with high disposable income. His designs style was shaped by Balenciaga with garments that were well sculpted for women.

1961 年，庫雷熱創立了自己的時裝公司。他以極其簡約、幾何、現代的設計而聞名，包括女式“小白裙”和褲子。這些設計通常與低跟白色踝靴搭配，這種風格被稱爲庫雷熱靴，後來演變成流行的高跟靴。他的客戶是成熟保守、可支配收入較高的女性。他的設計風格受到巴黎世家的影響，服裝剪裁精良，適合女性穿着。

Controversy over who created the idea for the miniskirt revolves around Courrèges and Mary Quant. Courrèges explicitly claimed to have invented it, accusing his London rival to the claim, Quant, of merely "commercialising" it. Courrèges presented short skirts (four inches above the knee) in January 1965 for that year's Spring/Summer collection. He had presented "above-the-knee" skirts in the previous year, with his August 1964 haute couture presentation proclaimed the "best show seen so far" for that season by The New York Times. Valerie Steele has stated that Courrèges was designing short skirts as early as 1961, although she champions Quant's claim to have created the miniskirt first as being more convincingly supported by evidence. Others, such as Jess Cartner-Morley of The Guardian explicitly credit Courrèges with having invented the miniskirt. The Independent also stated that "Courreges was the inventor of the miniskirt: at least in his eyes and those of the French fashion fraternity ... The argument came down to high fashion vs street fashion and to France versus Britain – there's no conclusive evidence either way." British Vogue considered John Bates the true inventor of the miniskirt, rather than Courrèges or Quant. Alongside short skirts, Courrèges was renowned for his trouser suits, cut-out backs and midriffs, all designed for a new type of athletic, active young woman. Steele has described Courrèges's work as a "brilliant couture version of youth fashion." One of Courrèges's most distinctive looks, a knit bodystocking with a gabardine miniskirt slung around the hips, was widely copied and plagiarised, much to his chagrin, and it would be 1967 before he again held a press showing for his work.

關於誰是迷你裙的發明者，爭議圍繞着庫雷熱和瑪麗·奎恩特展开。庫雷熱明確聲稱自己發明了迷你裙，並指責他的倫敦競爭對手奎恩特只是將其“商業化”。1965 年 1 月，庫雷熱在當年的春夏系列中展示了短裙（膝蓋以上四英寸）。他在前一年展示了“膝蓋以上”的裙子，1964 年 8 月的高級定制時裝秀被《紐約時報》譽爲該季“迄今爲止最好的時裝秀”。瓦萊麗·斯蒂爾表示，庫雷熱早在 1961 年就开始設計短裙，但她支持奎恩特聲稱自己首先發明了迷你裙的說法，認爲證據更有說服力。其他人，如《衛報》的傑西·卡特納-莫利，明確認爲庫雷熱發明了迷你裙。 《獨立報》還稱，“庫雷熱是迷你裙的發明者：至少在他和法國時尚界人士眼中是這樣……爭論的焦點在於高級時裝與街頭時尚，以及法國與英國——雙方都沒有確鑿的證據。”英國版《時尚》認爲約翰·貝茨才是迷你裙的真正發明者，而不是庫雷熱或 Quant。除了短裙，庫雷熱還以褲裝、露背和露臍裝而聞名，這些都爲一種新型運動型、活躍的年輕女性設計。斯蒂爾將庫雷熱的作品描述爲“青春時尚的精彩高級定制版”。庫雷熱最獨特的造型之一，是一件針織連身衣，搭配一條掛在臀部的華達呢迷你裙，被廣泛復制和剽竊，這讓他很懊惱，直到 1967 年，他才再次舉辦作品的新聞發布會。

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Courrèges's favoured materials included plastics such as vinyl and stretch fabrics like Lycra. While he preferred white and silver, he often used flashes of citrus colour, and the predominantly white designs in his August 1964 show were tempered with touches of his signature clear pink, a "bright stinging" green, various shades of brown from dark to pale, and poppy red.

Courrèges 偏愛的材料包括塑料（例如乙烯基）和彈力面料（例如萊卡）。雖然他偏愛白色和銀色，但他經常使用閃爍的柑橘色，1964 年 8 月的展覽中，以白色爲主的設計中夾雜着他標志性的清澈粉紅色、“明亮刺眼”的綠色、從深到淺的各種棕色色調以及罌粟紅色。

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In 1967 Courrèges married Coqueline Barrière, his design assistant. They had met while working together at Balenciaga, and worked together as a husband and wife team for the rest of his life.

1967 年，Courrèges 與他的設計助理 Coqueline Barrière 結婚。他們在 Balenciaga 共事時相識，之後兩人以夫妻檔的身份共事了一生。

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In 1968 Courrèges sold a share of his company to L'Oréal in order to finance his expansion, which, by 1972, included 125 boutiques around the world. That year, Courrèges was commissioned to design staff uniforms for the Munich Olympics that year. He began offering menswear in 1973. He also developed fragrances such as Empreinte, Courrèges Homme, Eau de Courrèges, Courrèges Blue, Sweet Courrèges, and Generation Courrèges. In clothing, he remained devoted to the Space Age styles he had established during the 1960s, not changing his characteristic design features even as fashion changed during the 1970s. At the end of 1970s, Courrèges signed licensing agreements for lines of several garments, from shoes to towels.

1968 年，Courrèges 將公司的部分股份出售給歐萊雅，以資助其擴張計劃。到 1972 年，Courrèges 已在全球开設了 125 家精品店。同年，Courrèges 受命爲慕尼黑奧運會設計工作人員制服。1973 年，他开始提供男裝。他還开發了 Empreinte、Courrèges Homme、Eau de Courrèges、Courrèges Blue、Sweet Courrèges 和 Generation Courrèges 等香水。在服裝方面，他仍然堅持他在 1960 年代確立的太空時代風格，即使 1970 年代時尚發生變化，他也沒有改變自己的特色設計。1970 年代末，Courrèges 籤署了從鞋子到毛巾等多種服裝系列的許可協議。

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In early 1983, Courrèges worked with the Japanese motor company Honda to design special editions of their TACT motor scooter. By 2005, Itokin held the Japanese ready-to-wear license for the Courrèges brand, with a retail value of €50 million. By this point, Coqueline Courrèges had succeeded her husband as artistic director for the brand, Courrèges having retired in 1995 following their successful reclamation of the brand in 1994 despite several ownership changes.

1983 年初，Courrèges 與日本汽車公司本田合作，設計了 TACT 摩托車的特別版。到 2005 年，伊都錦獲得了 Courrèges 品牌的日本成衣許可，零售價值爲 5000 萬歐元。此時，Coqueline Courrèges 已接替丈夫擔任該品牌的藝術總監，Courrèges 於 1995 年退休，盡管所有權幾經變更，但他們於 1994 年成功收回了該品牌。

In 1984 Courrèges designed the Peugeot "Courrèges" bicycle, a limited edition model in two colourways – pale blue, and white with pink colour pops, and with matching panniers, chain guard, handlebar grips and mudguards, with Sturmey-Archer hub gears.

1984 年，Courrèges 設計了標致“Courrèges”自行車，這是一款限量版車型，有兩種顏色可供選擇——淡藍色和白色，配以粉紅色調，並配有相配的馬鞍袋、鏈條護罩、車把握把和擋泥板，以及 Sturmey-Archer 輪轂齒輪。

In 2011, André and Coqueline Courrèges sold the Courrèges brand for more than 10 million euros ($13.05 million) to two Young & Rubicam advertising executives, Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting. By 2012, total revenue for the brand was about 20 million euros.

2011 年，安德烈·庫雷熱和科奎琳·庫雷熱以 1000 多萬歐元（1305 萬美元）的價格將庫雷熱品牌出售給了兩位 Young & Rubicam 廣告高管雅克·邦格特和弗雷德裏克·托洛廷。到 2012 年，該品牌的總收入約爲 2000 萬歐元。

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In 2014, Groupe Artemis, the personal investment vehicle of François-Henri Pinault, purchased a minority stake in Courrège. In 2018 Groupe Artemis became the majority shareholder of the brand. Nicholas di Felice was appointed creative director in September 2020, and has been credited with revitalizing the brand and bringing it back to relevance.

2014 年，François-Henri Pinault 的個人投資公司 Groupe Artemis 收購了 Courrège 的少數股權。2018 年，Groupe Artemis 成爲該品牌的大股東。Nicholas di Felice 於 2020 年 9 月被任命爲創意總監，並因重振品牌並使其恢復影響力而受到贊譽。

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Space design(空間設計):

Courrège's Spring 1964 collection established his impact on the fashion industry and named him the Space Age designer. The line consisted of "architecturally-sculpted, double-breasted coats with contrasting trim, well-tailored, sleeveless or short-sleeved minidresses with dropped waistlines and detailed welt seaming, and tunics worn with hipster pants". A notable look was the linear minidresses with revolutionary tailoring with cut-out panels that displayed waists, midriffs and backs. Courrège had strong beliefs within the liberation of fashion. He emphasized that "A woman's body must be hard and free, not soft and harnessed. The harness – the girdle and bra – is the chain of the slave." Which is why his cut-out panel garments were worn without bras.

Courrège 的 1964 年春季系列確立了他對時尚界的影響力，並被譽爲太空時代設計師。該系列包括“具有建築感的雙排扣外套，配以撞色飾邊；剪裁精良的無袖或短袖迷你裙，腰线低，有精細的貼邊縫线；以及搭配低腰褲的束腰外衣”。其中一種引人注目的款式是採用革命性剪裁的线性迷你裙，帶有露出腰部、腹部和背部的鏤空面板。Courrège 堅信時尚的解放。他強調“女性的身體必須堅硬而自由，而不是柔軟而束縛。束縛——腰帶和胸罩——是奴隸的鎖鏈。”這就是爲什么他的鏤空面板服裝不帶胸罩。·

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Accessories were inspired by astronauts' equipment such as goggles, helmets and flat boots. White and metallic colour ways were implemented to emphasise the futuristic collection. He utilised unconventional materials such as metal, plastic and PVC which was unusual for couture ateliers. The entire collection was celebrated with British Vogue announced that 1964 was "the year of Courrèges". The New York Times described him as "the brightest blaze of the year" to emphasise the change from the little black dress to the white dress. Designers such as Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne took influences towards "future" fashion looks. With new popularity, his designs trickled down to mass production companies that created affordable designs similar to Courrèges.

配飾靈感來自宇航員的裝備，如護目鏡、頭盔和平底靴。白色和金屬色系的設計凸顯了該系列的未來主義風格。他使用了金屬、塑料和 PVC 等非常規材料，這對於高級定制工坊來說並不常見。整個系列都受到了英國版《Vogue》雜志的慶祝，雜志宣布 1964 年是“Courrèges 年”。《紐約時報》稱他爲“年度最耀眼的明星”，強調了從小黑裙到小白裙的轉變。Pierre Cardin 和 Paco Rabanne 等設計師受到“未來”時尚外觀的影響。隨着他的設計再次受到歡迎，他的設計逐漸被批量生產公司採用，這些公司生產出的價格與 Courrèges 相似且價格實惠的設計。

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Later life and death(晚年):

Courrèges suffered from Parkinson's disease for the last 30 years of his life. He died on 7 January 2016 aged 92, in Neuilly-sur-Seine outside Paris and was survived by his wife and their daughter.

庫雷熱在生命的最後 30 年裏一直飽受帕金森病的折磨。2016 年 1 月 7 日，他在巴黎郊外的塞納河畔訥伊去世，享年 92 歲，留下了妻子和女兒。

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His death was published in notable media outlets and many designers went to celebrate his life online. President François Hollande went to Twitter to say, "A revolutionary designer, André Courrèges made his mark on haute couture using geometric shapes and new materials." Courrèges was a designer who looked to the future. He predicted the idea of healthy living and toned bodies through his book in 1982. Carla Sozzani, the owner of 10 Corso Como stated that, "It changed the concept of couture, marking the turn of fashion into a new era."

他的死訊被各大知名媒體報道，許多設計師都在網上悼念他。法國總統弗朗索瓦·奧朗德在推特上表示：“作爲一名革命性的設計師，安德烈·庫雷熱利用幾何形狀和新材料在高級時裝界留下了自己的印記。”庫雷熱是一位着眼於未來的設計師。他在 1982 年的書中預言了健康生活和健美身材的理念。10 Corso Como 的老板卡拉·索扎尼表示：“它改變了高級時裝的概念，標志着時尚進入了一個新時代。”

標題：法國時裝品牌Courrèges（活希源）品牌故事

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